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My go-to lens

Many photographers want warm, soft light - be it for baby photos, portraits, boudoir, you name it! Many of us are on a budget because we make photos just for fun. That's I am glad that I can answer today's question about lighting in a way that does not require a studio strobe and a giant .

I'm now into photography for about 6 years. My go to lens is still the first lens that I ever bought. A superzoom. I use it for round about 65% of my photos. At the same time, my most important lens is actually not my zoom but my prime. It's used for 35% of my photos, but if I could have only one lens, then I would ditch my zoom and go for the prime. Don't get me wrong, I am not one of the people saying that you can zoom with your feet. That's just an empty catch phrase and it has nothing to do with reality basic optics. Nevertheless the open aperture that my prime gives me is one of the most important style elements in my personal photography. 

 

 

My go to lens: Canon EF 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6L IS

My most important lens: Canon EF 50mm f/1.2 L

My favorite prime for my Fuji: XF 35mm f/1.4

 

 

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Oh Baby! Soft light on a budget

Many photographers want warm, soft light - be it for baby photos, portraits, boudoir, you name it! Many of us are on a budget because we make photos just for fun. That's I am glad that I can answer today's question about lighting in a way that does not require a studio strobe and a giant octabox.

How I go about soft, warm light

 

 

Check this baby setup

 

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My Fuji won't replace my Canon

I hear it quite often these days: DSLRs are dead. Mirrorless cameras are enough for everything. I personally can say that I love my 5D MK III as well my mirrorless Fuji X-E2. The latter one will not replace my DSLR. Let me share my top 3 examples of things I am missing on my Fuji, so that I still use my 5D for the respective photos.

 

 

My DSLR

My mirrorless

 

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You don't need that f***in' light meter

When it comes to awesome photo light, many roads lead to Rome. You can meter your light with a handheld incident meter or you can simply read the correct setting from your histogram. In this podcast episode I explain how I do the latter one all the time.

 

 

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E-TTL, i-TTL or manual?

Through the Lens metering is an awesome functionality. Canon's E-TTL and Nikons i-TTL are sophisticated and help you out tremendously when you have to shoot fast, for example when you cover a wedding with your camera. However, when you make photographs of models you usuallly have a minute or two to setup the power of your flash and the exposure values of your camera manually. Does this pay off? I think it does in many cases.

 

 

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Enough juice for HSS and Auto FP

HSS and Auto FP are awesome for using your speedlight to bring life into scenes outdoors on a bright day. However, many photographers are a bit afraid that their flash will be not strong enough. Many think that highspeed sync might eat up their batteries too fast. In today’s episode I try to give tips on all of that.

 

Here’s the stuff that I use:


Eneloop Batteries


Tenergy / Knox 16 bay charger

 

 

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Why your photos with backlighting might look flat


Technically backlighting does not make your photos more flat. But practically this effect will often be the outcome when shooting photos against a strong light source like your flash and like the sun.

You can either accept this as a cool style, or you can make up for it by creating a scene that allows for the introduction of side lighting or by stacking adding a clear foreground and background to your photo.

 

The awesome examples that I refer to in the podcast are in

Good Light! Magazine Issue 09

 

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The right lighting ratio - 3 tips

Tip 1 
Use the following ratios as your starting point
1:1 for beauty, 
2:1 for portraits of women, 
4:1 portraits of men, 
8:1 Character portraits, artistic photos and similar 

If you don't know better: Start with your favorite ratio, mine is 2:1, I set my Mainlight to 1/4, fill to 1/8
Make a photo
Check the contrast
Tune from there

Tip 2
When in doubt, go for a smaller ratio. It's better to shoot the photo a bit to boring and then add a bit of contrast in postprod in lightroom, then shoot it with too much contrast. LR let's you add contrast without any loss of quality, but quality will always decrease once you try to lower contrast

Tip 3
For your lighting ratios to show, use an angle of 45-90 degrees between key- and fill-light.
Your flashes have to light your subject from different sides in order for your ratios to take effect.
The chosen light ratio will show on your photo in those areas where your light sources don't overlap

Check out the podcast for my attempt of explaining the basics of light ratios.

 

Like to get an invite to my FREE Cover Shoot workshop at Photokina 2014?

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Easy Release Android

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3 tips on getting a signed model release

They quite often approach me with funky TfP contracts and weird releases. Models rightfully want to base their work on a solid legal foundation. So do I. That’s why I rather decline a photo shoot than doing it without my standard Getty Model Release. Thankfully pretty much every model agrees to it. That’s why today I share my 3 tips on getting a signed model release.

 

Getty Image Releases


Easy Release iOS


Easy Release Android

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Earning money shooting for magazines

There are a number of magazines that accept photo submissions from photographers, who would like to see their work published. But how to drive it up to the next level and start getting paid for magazine work?

 

Free Magazine Photography Pricing Guide


Good Light! Magazine Submissions

 

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